Replacement polarized plugs are available at home improvement and hardware stores. As you say, it really doesn't matter which goes to center rail and which goes to outside rail in this simple application. Given the precise nature of the original question at least as I read it and the fact that its was the questioner's third try, I deliberately chose to eliminate all consideration of adding fixed-voltage accessories. We disagree on which rail to connect the U terminal to. Phasing Transformers With a toy train layout, if you have two transformers powering two different divisions and they're out of phase it would be possible to inadvertently run 40 volts through a locomotive when it's over the center rail insulating track pin separating the divisions.
I like to just cut the wire, strip back a bit of insulation, then twist all three wires together and secure them with a wire nut. If the latter how do I do that? Remove the two screws that secure the small roadbed section to the switch and lift away the roadbed section. Smaller layouts a typical 4 foot by 8 foot being a good example can usually get by with Number 16 since the length of the run from the power supply to the track is never more than a few feet. For 9 to 19 volts variable the throttle designate post U as common and connect it to an outside rail; connect A to the center rail. Tighten down the thumbscrew ensuring good bare wire contact with the threaded post and a tight connection. Press the lower edge of the center rail inside the metal clip near the end of the lock-on.
For longer than 15 feet, use 10 gauge wire. The plastic insulation will slide off easily. If you derail a train 4 amps of power can run through the wire for 10-15 seconds before the circuit breaker kicks in. Especially if you've purchased new track, it will require some force to fit together see tip 2 , and the corners of the rails and ties can be sharp. For a temporary layout, any electrical wire with good insulation will work. I woudn't have posted at all except for the fact that I was busy writing mine when yours popped up. Chris, I actually like the second one over the first.
The track outputs will deliver all of this power to the track when no accessories are connected to the Transformer. For longer than 15 feet, use. See examples in the chart at the end of Phasing. Train derailments are more likely with back to back curves shown here. I think I'd put a power drop lockon on each end and one on the dead-end spur in the center, unless you wanted that spur to have a power supply that you can turn on and off separately like to park a second train or something. When phasing a fixed voltage transformer use the fixed voltage, such as 18V, on both transformers.
The date tags on items in photos are part of my inventory system. If you're just getting into O gauge, or even if you're a collector getting the urge to build a layout, you'll need to lay some track. See correct way to wire lockons below. This is different from the stranded wire in that the different individual wires, each with their own color-coded insulation, is placed inside a secondary insulation wrap. The A post gives a higher top speed, while sacrificing lower speeds.
Most operating accessories i'd use 20 gauge,too. That is why the trains run faster. Refer to Figure 1 below as you assemble the track sections. But the bad news is that it shorted out all the other things on the same circuit within about one second. The interior breaker protects the transformer, not the trains. After all, without track and a transformer, of course , your three-rail trains are just expensive push toys! If yours is one of them and you don't get enough power, try the second optionl Check out for a useful discussion of Lionel transformers. Since most Lionel transformers use black terminals for the common, black is a good choice.
Most are time-tested, so you can be pretty sure the assembly will go smoothly. If you have not already done so, test the power supply without any track or accessories attached. May I ask for your help with two new questions. Take a look at Figure 2 to see how to join the track sections. I have backtracked on everything that I did before I had the problem and still nothing. For Railside Excitement All Along the Line! They do not all arrive with the same phasing. You are correct in that early on Lionel established a cockamamie hook-up convention that used different designations for common depending on whether a transformer was designed to have just one or two-or-more throttles.
The wire can also be purchased as solid or stranded. . The back of the transformer has 5 posts. We highly recommend color coding your wires. The meter reads 28V which indicates the transformers are out of phase. For your accessories, you can generally use thinner wire.
The arrows show tabs where the old wire connectors can be used. Where I refer to tubular track, I'm talking about regular Lionel, K-Line, or other track with rails formed from sheet steel. Is the 185 with constant 18v truly a problem? Are you sure you didn't disturb anything when you replaced the power cord? But what would I connect the neutral wire to for all the lights and accessories? It is my impression that a short neutral or common wire would only be required to one of the four loops that would suffice for all the loops because of the interconnection between the transformers on their U terminals. Loosen the two thumbscrews on the Lock-On. The multi-conductor wire is also available. And 2 , since this set-up, from page 7 of No. Ensuring your transformers are in phase takes only a minute and will be critical as you wire accessories, common-rail wire multiple track loops, and add additional power supplies going forward.